Bias Binding Tutorial - Version 3

Bias binding is a nice, clean way to finish an edge.  You can use matching fabric or contrasting for a different look.  There's three major ways to do it, so in the next few days I'll be showing you all three versions.  This third version is a little bulkier than the other two, but it's often used in quilting to provide a firm fold.

Version 3: Folded

Start by cutting a strip of bias that is six times the width you want your final bias to be (yes, six, not four like the other two).  So in order to get the same 1/2" binding I need to cut a 3" strip of satin.  My favorite way of doing this is with a rotary cutter, but employ your own favorite way of cutting continuous bias, there are a ton of ways out there.  If your bias is not long enough for your edge piece strips together to get one long enough.  Once you have a strip cut fold it in half wrong sides together and press.

 Pin the raw edges of your folded bias strip flush with the raw edge of your fabric.

Sew the strip down.  The width of your seam allowance will be the width of your final bias binding, in this case 1/2" seam allowance equals 1/2" bias binding.  Open the seam, seam allowances to the bias tape side, and press open.  Then fold the bias around to the back and press, then pin in place.  The bias should just barely cover the seam.

From here you can finish the bias tape either by stitching in the ditch like you did for Version 1 or by slipstitching by hand like you did in Version 2.  This method renders a sturdier, more durable edge that is bulkier than the other methods:

Bias Binding Tutorial - Version 2

Bias binding is a nice, clean way to finish an edge.  You can use matching fabric or contrasting for a different look.  There's three major ways to do it, so in the next few days I'll be showing you all three versions.  The second requires some handwork but presents a fully-finished look with little excess bulk.

Version 2: Hand-Stitched

Start the same way you did for version 1: by cutting a bias strip of fabric 4x the width you want the final binding to be.  For instance, I like 1/2" binding on my corsets so I cut 2" strips.  My favorite way of doing this is with a rotary cutter, but employ your own favorite way of cutting continuous bias, there are a ton of ways out there.  If your bias is not long enough for your edge piece strips together to get one long enough.

Place your bias tape on the edge you're going to finish with the right side down.  Pin it in place with the edge flush to the raw edge of the fabric.

Sew the strip down.  The width of your seam allowance will be the width of your final bias binding, in this case 1/2" seam allowance equals 1/2" bias binding.

Press open the seam you just made with all the seam allowance toward the bias tape side.  Then fold the bias tape over and press again.  Finally fold under the edge of the bias tape so that you have a clean fold on the inside and press.  With this method it isn't important that the fold cover the seam.

Using a needle and thread slipstitch or blind hem the bias tape folded edge to the fabric.  In the case of a corset with multiple layers try to hide the stitch length in the fold of the bias or between the two layers of fabric and be sure to only catch the inside layer with your stitch so that your stitches cannot be seen from the outside.

Bias Binding Tutorial - Version 1

Bias binding is a nice, clean way to finish an edge.  You can use matching fabric or contrasting for a different look.  There's three major ways to do it, so in the next few days I'll be showing you all three versions.  The first is a quick, easy way to do bias tape that requires some precision with the machine but saves a lot of handwork.

Version 1: Stitch in the Ditch

Start by cutting a bias strip of fabric 4x the width you want the final binding to be.  For instance, I like 1/2" binding on my corsets so I cut 2" strips.  My favorite way of doing this is with a rotary cutter, but employ your own favorite way of cutting continuous bias, there are a ton of ways out there.  If your bias is not long enough for your edge piece strips together to get one long enough.

Take your bias tape and pin one edge flush with the edge of the fabric you're binding.  I know it looks ripply here, I'm not sure why that is, but make it flat and smooth on the face of the fabric.

Sew down the strip.  The width of your seam allowance will be the width of your final bias binding (in this case 1/2").

Fold the bias tape over the edge of the fabric to the back.  Then fold the seam allowance in to the fabric, leaving a smooth fold on the back of the fabric that is longer than the seam from the other side (this is key.  Back must be minutely longer than front for this method to work).  Press and pin in place.

Using your machine, sew the front of the fabric along the line where the bias tape folds.  Don't stitch on the bias tape, stitch the fabric right where the bias tape ends (that's why this is called "stitch in the ditch").  If you did it right when you are finished the bias tape on the back will be barely caught by the second seam, and the seam in the front will sink into the shadow created by the bias tape and be virtually invisible.

More Corset and Boning Channel Trick

Decided on black boning channels.  Most people pointed out that red would compete and downplay the spiders, and I wanted them to stick out in the final product, so I went with black.

External boning channels are a challenge for a lot of people.  They're difficult to get straight and crisp and smooth.  Here's my trick for making them work out:

I use fusible hem tape.  First I cut a bias strip 2" wide (for 1/2" boning) with my rotary cutter.  I like to cut it a bit wider than double the channel width so that it overlaps a little on the back.  Then I center the boning channel on the bias strip's wrong side and put hem tape over top.  Very carefully I fold over one side and press it down onto the fusible tape.  You have to be careful to not let your iron touch the fusible at all or it will get all gunky and wreck the tape.  After one side is fused I fold over the other side snugly and press them both down.  Having the two sides overlap means that I can press with my whole iron without worrying about a strip of gunk down the middle adhering to my iron.

The overlap part is the back of the strip now.  I pin the strips on to the corset and carefully sew them down.  I tend to go down both sides from the top of the corset to the bottom.  It's not important which way you go, but it is very important that you either go up both sides or down both sides.  If you go up one side and down the other (how I usually put on boning tape) it will wrinkle the channel.  Using a teflon foot (or putting a piece of tape on the bottom of your foot and cutting around it) helps a lot, too.

Here's my corset with all the channels, ready for boning and binding!

Corset Construction

I'm making a new Halloween corset, so I thought this would be the perfect chance to go over the steps of putting a corset together.  I'm using a tested pattern so I didn't need to fit a mock-up.

I cut the pattern out of the fashion fabric and a khaki twill.  Then I pinned the boning channels to the twill that would go between the seams:

I placed these channels from past experience, but in general you want a channel every 2-3" (remember there will also be boning on each seam).  Also, if you have a problem with tummy pooch angling the boning slightly towards the center on the front and side front will help keep it in.

After sewing all the foundation boning I layered each piece with its corresponding fashion fabric piece and then sewed all the seams.  This is before I ironed any of them.  Since none of the seams cross each other you can wait until the end to press them all (although sometimes they're placed so closely together it can be difficult if you don't have a sleeve board).

I had to stop here because I haven't picked a fabric for the external boning channels yet (Black or Red?  I'm so torn!).  Here's a fun pic of the outside right now though: