I got a bit of work done on my bustle dress this week. Or, actually, I got a little real work and a ton of mock ups done. I think I finally figured out what was bugging me, though, so full speed ahead now!
Here's the underskirt front. It took a while because I didn't want to waste taffeta on ruching more than would be showing in the final dress. So in order to figure out what would be showing I had to mock up the overskirt and measure. I finally decided I was safe stopping at 14", and I want the hem to be a 5" ruffle, so I marked those parts off the front, side front, and side back pieces (the back won't show, but it will be taffeta just in case). I took what was left and made a pattern piece that was an inch wider and double the length, with ruching lines marked down the center of each piece. Then I ran a gathering stitch down the taffeta pieces cut from this pattern and gathered them on the base muslin of the skirt and basted it down. Once each piece was secure I sewed them together. I still need to finish the side back pieces, that's why this is only the front.
Here's my latest mock up of the overskirt back. It took me a while because I didn't realize that the seams on the overskirt weren't side seams, they were really more side-back seams. Once I had that revelation it worked out why the front piece was so big and why the back seemed to not fall right. I wanted the back part to come up to the side seam of the overskirt, so in order to do that I used the full width of the faille (60"). I put the overskirt pattern piece in the center and cut the sides down where all the pleating was to right past the pleating. Then I pleated it up and re-attached it to the side I cut it from so that I had the fullness of the pleating but the sides extending to the full width I needed. There are no ties in this mock-up so it's a little droopy, but I can see that it's gonna do what I want so I'll be cutting it out as soon as I finish the underskirt.
So what's next? Finish the underskirt and put it on a waistband. Sew together the hem facings and use them to hem the dress. Cut and sew on a hem ruffle. Then cut and start on the overskirt. So much to do, and Cybils reading besides!